Is a Blackpowder Firearm the Ultimate Survival Weapon?

by MHM

14 November 2018
 

  So, the unthinkable has happened. Maxine Waters is now president (beating Hillary Clinton, again) due to a fluke in the time-space continuum, and the next day Earth gets struck by a mega coronal mass ejection that fries every electrical device known to mankind. What would your choice be for a survival weapon?
  For self defense and hunting, there are many implements to choose from, ranging from good ol’ stone age weapons such as the atlatl, spears, and bows, to the medieval sword and crossbow. Modern firearms notwithstanding, I don’t see the supply of small arms ammo drying up immediately (even after fifty years). WWI and WWII era small arms are still evident in some modern wars, and black powder flintlock firearms and cartridge guns were sold and used by tribesmen until the early 1900’s (not to mention used in the 1980’s by Afghan muj). So, what’s the old school survivor to do after the SHTF?

     1980- Afghan Muj armed with Lee Enfield Mk 1 rifles produced from 1903-1907. One       guerilla is armed with a more modern Soviet AKM (Photo- NY Times). Rarely, Martini-Henry black powder cartridge guns are still found in Taliban caches, along with flintlock jezails.

  Naturally, many prefer such calibers as the .22 long rifle, or black powder cartridge guns. Fine and dandy for cartridge guns, provided you have a lifetime supply of primers, and plan on defending your organic turnip farm or llama ranch along with a few well armed neighbors. Good luck trying to fight off marauding biker gangs, renegade military units, or cultists who believe Bill the Cat is the supreme deity. That, or invest in a good .45-70 Sharps.
   While some believe they can survive in the wilderness with their flintlock long rifle or caplock Hawken, “livin’ the life” of a Rocky Mountain trapper, the fact of the matter is that after a few weeks, the population will have dwindled seriously and only those with a means of self defense (or offense, depending on your point of view) will have the means to survive.  Returning to Civil War era living conditions, it won’t take long for suppressed diseases to return (such as cholera, plague, pandemic flu, malaria, hemorraghic fevers, etc.).

                  J. Hawken full stock caplock rifle, made circa 1825 (Cody Firearms Museum)

  So, what’s a survival enthusiast to do in the face of such calamity? Even if the supply of modern cartridge ammo dries up, one still has the means to make a primitive black powder firearm in the form of a matchlock pistol or musket (even a rifle, if you’re into some serious gunsmithing).
  The first matchlocks appeared around 1450, made by Germanic gunsmiths. They were used extensively by various armies in the early 1500’s, supplemented by wheellock pistols and rifles, and by 1625 the snaplock and flintlock mechanisms were widely available. In an emergency, even a flintlock firearm, or a caplock rifle, can be converted to use matchcord by simply securing matchchord in the jaws of a flintlock (opening the pan just before firing), or tying to the hammer of a caplock (you’ll have to prime the tube accordingly).  

Author owns a reproduction 15th century arquebus and 17th century fishtail matchlock musket.

  The main drawback of a matchlock is that the pan must be opened immediately before firing, and then pulling the lever or trigger. This could be problematic in inclement weather, or if the wind is blowing (as on the plains).  We should keep in mind that soldiers and colonial militia were also armed with swords and tomahawks for additional defense.
  There are several sutlers available for purchasing a matchlock musket, and it’s not terribly difficult to make your own black powder if the need ever arises. Matchcord is easily made using 3/8” to ½” cotton cord (100 percent), which can be found at most craft stores. I’ve found that one can also use sisal rope, but the cotton cord works better. 
  I made my matchcord by soaking it in potassium nitrate; about two tablespoons to a two liter jug of water. I soaked the cord for 15 minutes, and after drying, it burned with a nice coal at the rate of one inch in seven minutes. You may have to experiment for faster or slower rates. 

  I purchased my fishtail matchlock musket from the Canadian company “The Discriminating General”, and the arquebus from Indian manufacturer MK Sigligar. The latter took 20 days to arrive, but the transaction went well and shipping from India was $100 (the cost of purchase and S&H was still several hundred dollars under US prices).

  Whether it's your primary choice or a backup to a modern firearm, black powder firearms continue to endure.

mhm
Old School Survival blog
14 November 2018

15th century arquebus and fishtail musket (the candle shot is pretty amazing)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v-vJOUBIX4o

Iraq Veteran8888 test fires a fishtail matchlock musket
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bk1oWUjS3UQ

Equipping the musketeer and firing-

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZZukxamOoVE

Surplus MOLLE Gear

by MHM

4 November 2018

  Picked up some surplus MOLLE gear, one of the successors to the old LC-1 and -2 gear first fielded in 1973. While I don’t have a problem with ALICE gear, MOLLE offers numerous advantages and more versatility for a loadout. Both have their plus and minuses, which I’ll cover below. You can say I’m a MOLLE convert (MOLLE standing for "Modular Lightweight Load Carrying Equipment").

  I found a “used” MOLLE Fighting Load Carrier vest in the ACU pattern for a mere $14.95. I personally dislike the noisy Velcro closures on much of the MOLLE pouches, and scrimmaged around the bins in the local Army/Navy surplus store looking for pouches with clip closures (there was a good supply, some off brand). I managed to scrounge up some used off brand M4 pouches, several "used" M240 and M249 pouches, and the flat M4 pouches  for less than $3-$4 each (used canteen and pouch a mere $2.50 each).  M4 bandoliers, which hold six 30 round M16 magazines, were also a great bargain along with a sustainability pouch at $3.00 each.
  While the method of attachment for MOLLE has its advantages, it is time consuming to arrange your gear (but not overly difficult).  One plus is that when pouches are properly weaved through the webbing, they stay put and for the most part won’t rattle around or fall off. LC-1 pouches and gear were attached with metal keepers, and there were several methods used to secure them if necessary (ranging from zip ties to 550 cord). I never had a problem wearing my LC-1 gear during my tour in USAFE back in the late ‘80’s and early ‘90’s (EUCOM for those who speak Army). I don’t recall anyone losing any piece of equipment during numerous exercises and alarms, and no one I knew resorted to zip ties or 550 cord. I also used LC-1 gear and a pack for years while camping out west in the mountains.  
  One Viet Nam combat veteran told me he never wore a web belt, being bogged down with his pack, PRC-25 radio and extra battery, rations, claymore, poncho, smoke grenades, extra clothing, etc., and carried 400 rounds of ammo in 20 round magazines or on strippers in OD cotton bandoliers.
  For those interested in various configurations of the MOLLE vest, I’ve linked the pdf for TM 10-8465-236-10 below.   
  One adaptation from the Viet Nam era was using a canteen pouch to carry M16 magazines. The MOLLE canteen pouch will hold five, but be sure to cinch it closed and tie the bungee cord together to secure the mags in place (if y0u prefer). A MOLLE  SAW pouch will also work, but with the flat three magazine pouch with its webbing attachment points, adding additional pouches isn’t a problem. LC-1 pouches will not attach to MOLLE gear without an adapter.
  For hiking, carrying medical supplies, or using it for your bug out gear, the MOLLE FLC vest is a nice piece of equipment and rides well. I don’t really care for the ACU camo pattern and nylon sheen, but these can be spray painted or dyed to match your environment (I’ve used Rustoleum camo paint- smells terrible so paint your gear outdoors).  I’ve spray painted some ACU bandoliers several different camo patterns, and my nephew couldn’t find one I planted in some shrubs in plain view ten feet away. Make sure you tape over any zippers to prevent binding on your gear before painting. Some outdoor enthusiasts also dye their gear, which works just as well but is time consuming.

  In all, I acquired an extremely versatile rig with nearly a dozen pouches for about $70. 

 

  Overall, the MOLLE gear has become my favorite, and I still keep my LC-1 and -2 gear handy for other contingencies and setups.

mhm
4 November 2018
Old School Survivial (OSS) blog

TM 10-86465-236-10

https://ciehub.info/ref/TM/10-8465-236-10.html

How to mount your MOLLE gear-

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mXOBRda70L0

                                  FLC vest with assorted pouches (photo Sportsman's Guide)

Making Hardtack



by MHM
27 October 2018

  Biscuit or “sea bread”, is nothing more than wheat flour and water mixed, and baked. By 1812, it was known as “hardtack”, and taken west by several Rocky Mountain trapping parties (Luttig's 1812 party, for example). It was a staple of English colonists, seafarers, and part of US Army and Navy rations since their founding. 

  I’ve used ordinary store bought all purpose enriched wheat flour, which has some ground barley in it also. After mixing the dough to the proper consistency, it is then kneaded, cut, and spread out about ¼” thick on an ungreased baking pan in 4” diameter biscuits (or squares, if you prefer). Holes are made every inch or so on the surface of the biscuit, which is then baked at low temperature at 350 degrees F, 45 minutes per side.  
  In 2005, I made about a half pound of biscuit for living history demonstration purposes. While many of the biscuits have been broken while being handled, they still retain their taste after thirteen years, and as long as the flour is insect free and remains dry, you have a long term and inexpensive survival food handy.

 Biscuit dating from 1784

mhm

Old School Survival (OSS) blog
27 October 2018

Basic Fire Starting

by MHM
27 October 2018

  There are several methods to be used when starting a fire in a survival situation. These range from the paleo to iron age methods, and more useful modern implements for those who’ve left their matches at home (or handy lighter).
  For starters, a fire needs to have three basic materials to burn. This includes combustible materials (in our case wood), oxygen, and flame.
  One of the earliest fire making methods was to rub two dry pieces of wood together in the friction method of firemaking (either using a fire drill, hand method, etc). Of course, if you are in a wet environment this is especially problematic. I attended one black powder Rendezvous out west during May, and it rained the entire weekend. One hard core reenactor, influenced by primitive trekker Mark Baker, sat near his lean-to and fanned the fire throughout his 2 ½ day  stay, keeping his small fire going while also attempting to dry out water soaked wood. Even digging down under the deadfall and leaves, we could not find dry wood. Some of the more enterprising buckskinners brought along lantern or charcoal fluid for such a contingency (use gasoline only as a last resort).
  To build a fire, one has to start with good tinder, and this can be in the form of pine straw, cattail down, and dried leaves or grasses (we’ve even used buffalo and cow dung). A successful fire is built up using kindling, which can be shaped to form a small box or triangle, gradually adding finger sized sticks. As the fire catches, add in larger pieces of wood, keeping in mind to keep the fire relevant to the task at hand (cooking) or reasonable (for survival) with a decent bed of coals. Wet wood can be placed around the edge of the camp fire to dry out, turning as required.

  Eventually, our thoughtful ancestors located materials to create sparks, and the concept of striking iron bearing stones on flint (such as pyrite) or other suitable materials caught on. This method requires dried tinder which has a charred edge to catch the spark, which in turn will glow with a small red edge. This material is then placed amongst the tinder (or “birds nest”) and is coaxed by blowing on it. Make sure you hold the material up to avoid smoke getting into your eyes.
  By the iron age, fire steels were common and only required striking the steel against a suitable piece of flint. I’ve seen reenactors use agate and other hard stones to produce sparks. One can also use the pan in his/her firelock to catch sparks on char (making sure your weapon is unloaded) To make charcloth, use a heavy natural cloth which will hold the ember; it must be baked in a container which chars the cloth, but doesn’t burn it to a cinder. After poking a hole in the top of the container, place a few pieces of cloth inside, seal it, and place in the coals of the fire. Make sure that smoke comes out of the hole, not a flame, which means your cloth is burning (simply poke a stick in the hole, and remove the container from the coals if this happens). After it cools, remove the stick and repeat the process, making sure you don’t place the container directly into the flames.  

  Char can come in several forms, from charred wood, fungi, to heavy cloth. I’ve coaxed a  fire using very small embers from coals barely smoldering in the morning campfire. Getting a fire going seems to brighten spirits, no doubt a deeply ingrained process shared by our ancient ancestors, since it brought security, cooked food, provided light, and had religious and ceremonial purposes. 

  During the 18th century, several methods were used to artificially create fire using chemicals. One example includes two vials of phosphorus and two of alum and sugar, carried by Captain Meriwether Lewis of the US Army’s Corps of Discovery during the 1804-1806 expedition. A relatively simple method is to mix sugar and potassium permanganate in equal quantities, which when ground, will ignite. There are several other methods used to ignite potassium permanganate, ranging from glycerine to anti-freeze. However, for the most part I’d stick to the inexpensive and less hazardous substances and basic techniques.       While most natives had the luxury of fire steels, there were still tribes encountered by the L&C expedition who were using fire bows. I saw a reenactor at Fort Union, Montana use a bow drill to make an ember and fire in less than 45 seconds. 

  Some folks use magnesium fire starters, but I’ve made fire much quicker using a flint and steel kit. I used a magnesium fire starter in the ‘70’s during BSA outings, and won first place in a fire starting competition during a jamboree. I’ve found that using a flint and steel kit is much quicker; one strike and the spark is on the char, and we have a fire going in less than 15 seconds. The magnesium fire starter has the advantage that once the magnesium shavings are ignited, they will certainly burn, even in wet weather.  

  For small camp stoves and other requirements, some campers soak cotton balls in wax. This also has the additional advantage of using wax pieces to get your fire going in wet weather. I’ve used pine cones, which are filled with sap and produce a surprising amount of flame. When I was a Boy Scout, we used to coat strike-anywhere matches with wax, using a fingernail to remove the coating on the head just before striking. 

  Another inexpensive method for fire starting is to use cotton cord charred on the end, or to soak the cord in a potassium nitrate solution, and let dry. I’ve used this method for my matchlock musket. Once a spark is caught on the material, it burns with a very large bright coal which is difficult to extinguish (1/2 inch or larger cord works well). You will have to experiment with a solution which burns the slowest (for example, two tablespoons of KNO3 in a two liter jug of water, soaked for 15 minutes). When dry, my cord burned an inch in seven minutes.  

  One expeditious means of fire starting is to use a battery. This can range from using the leads of your car battery hooked to extension cables and creating a spark, or using D cells with fine steel wool. Make sure you have your camp fire ready before starting these tasks, and clear out an area near your fire of combustibles. 

  Finally, small cigarette lighters can be picked up at the dollar store, usually three in a package for a buck. These come in quit handy camping, and you can either supplement your strike anywhere matches with them or keep in the glove compartment of your vehicle or backpack.

mhm

Old School Survival (OSS) blog

27 October 2018

          "Interior of a  Hut of a Mandan Chief" by Karl Bodmer, 1834.

 

 

Surviving Rationing

by MHM

25 October 2018

  I’ve often asked those who lived through the Great Depression and World War II how they endured during the strict rationing imposed on them by “progressive” governments. Several old timers replied that since they lived in the countryside or on farms, they were never in need of food, since they were self reliant or raised their own lifestock. It was a time when those who lived along the Gulf Coast of the southern US and off Long Island related seeing burning merchants off shore, targets of German U-boats. I don’t recall any of these folks living in the countryside suffering, compared to those in the cities who were limited in what they could grow locally (if at all).  

  Naturally, the Left seems obsessed with rationing, whether it is your constitutional rights, freedom to travel, expression, or to buy goods.
  In WWII, US rationing began on 11 December 1941, although those in the US were previously warned of impending problems due to the war in Europe. The main inducement was stepped up production for the war effort, and the need to provide the UK with food and goods due to the effective “U-boat peril”.

 When rationing of gasoline took effect, certain members of the community were exempt, such as firefighters and police (VIP “X” stickers). Never ones to steep so low as to be considered as part of the peasant class, over 200 congressmen also received “X” stickers for their auto’s.  After a public outcry, these gracious privileges were revoked. Rationing of clothes soon followed, along with goods made of rubber, steel, and aluminum since these materials went towards the war effort. You could not buy new tires, automobiles, refrigerators, typewriters, etc., and even clothing was rationed.  

 US food rations generally consisted of the following monthly allowances (there were no limits for those who grew their own food, nor on fresh chicken or seafood). Canned goods were otherwise rationed- 

 

 

 Note that not all food items were rationed (those bought on the point system), but many purchases depended on availability.

  I don’t recall much from what my father said about WWII rationing, only that they made “bathtub booze” during the war years. My mother lived in Montauk, NY during the war, so they ate a lot of seafood. 

  In the UK, rationing was strict and in some regards items such as sugar were rationed until 1954. The weekly ration in the UK during the war years for one adult generally consisted of-

 

 Communist and totalitarian nations continue to use rationing as a means of population control. Cuba is no exception.  

 

  The situation in Venezuela, created by the “socialist” government, has been spiraling out of control since the establishment of the dictatorship by the late Hugo Chavez (and currently by former bus driver and communist Nicholas Maduro). As of 2018, dozens of basic food items and consumer goods are in short supply due to government corruption, incompetence, and the imposition of tyranny. The average Venezuelan lost 26 pounds in 2017. 

The 1973 Arab-Israeli War (or Ramadan War, depending on your point of view), resulted in an oil embargo against the US by the Arab OPEC nations from October 1973 to March 1974. Therefore, as a stopgap measure, the US instituted gas rationing. Much of this consisted of limiting gas purchases to odd/even days- those with auto tags ending with even numbers could only buy gas on even numbered days, those with odd numbered tag buying on odd days). I don’t recall any shortages locally, but then again those events were 45 years ago, and President Ford’s “Whip Inflation Now” campaign was more memorable (as was Jimmy Carter’s ineffectual leadership).  

  From 1972-1973 our family was stationed in southern Italy, and while we could buy gasoline on the local economy, gas was rationed by the U.S. Armed Forces. When I arrived in Germany in 1988, we had ration cards for hard alcohol purchases, and were limited to buying gas at AAFES gas stations with a coupon book (no limits for buying on the German economy, which ran about $4 per gallon equivalent). Rationing is still in effect in EUCOM for gas, cigarettes, hard liquor, and coffee. Even driving from Rheinland Pfalz to Garmisch and back during a weekend trip or leave, not to mention other sites in Germany, I don’t recall even coming close to the monthly gas allotment.

 During one weekend at the local gasthaus, I ran into a German man in his late 40’s who related that, as an orphan during WWII, they barely survived the war. He stated he loved Americans, since only the GI's fed them after the end of the conflict.
   Thus, while totalitarian governments and progressive socialist visionaries continue their quest to crush the human spirit and repress freedom, the wise will find ways to fight back against tyranny in its endless forms.

Suggested viewing- 

Modern family tries WWII era rationing in Australia

http://www.abc.net.au/local/stories/2008/04/21/2223082.htm

 

Communists advocating rationing for “climate change”
http://climate.leeds.ac.uk/events/food-climate-change-and-rationing/

Yet another EUSSR advocate of food rationing-
http://home.bt.com/lifestyle/wellbeing/why-a-return-to-food-rationing-could-be-good-for-us-11363917868218

 

mhm
Old School Survival (OSS) blog
25 October 2018